--Wire-wrapping a board for use in a PC means blowing off
one of your slots, since the wire-wrap pins stick out into
the adjacent card's space.  But, see the last comment below!

--Buy pre-cut wire-wrap wire, color-coded, if you'll be
doing a lot of wrapping.  An index card marked with the
*insulated* lengths of each color then quickly identifies
the correct wire to use.  (Expensive initially, but the only
way to fly for multiple projects.  Digi-Key sells, or used
to.)

--Wrap-ID (tm) are really nice to have.  Little plastic
do-da's that slide over the pins on the bottom side of the
board (where you'll be wrapping) with the pin #'s and space
to write the part number.  (Digi-Key probably still sells.)

--Make an extra copy of your schematic, then use a yellow
highlighter to highlight the connections as you make them. 
(Digi-Key does not sell yellow highlighters. ;) )

--Neatness will pay off more than you initially think.

--Strangely enough, the wire-wrap tool from Radio Shack is
(was?) not too bad--and much cheaper than the brand names in
the field.  (I got one many years ago, and RS is not known
for consistancy of products, so take this for what it's
worth.)

And now, for the first time ever (AFAIK), the "skinny
wire-wrap" method, which I learned from my friend Martin
King:

Instead of using wire-wrap sockets, instead use decent
quality solder-tail sockets.  Use pad-per-hole board
material, and solder down the sockets leaving extra space to
the sides of all IC sockets.  Now take 0.025" square post
headers (single-wide) and solder them along the sides of
each IC socket.  Use bare wire or solder bridges to connect
each IC socket pin to the corresponding pin on the header.  
Now you can wire-wrap on the top of the board.  Usually
doesn't add any additional height to the board (caps or such
are usually just as high), but no pins sticking out the
bottom.  For cards destined for ISA slots in a PC, you don't
lose use of the adjacent slot.  (Since wires tend to get
channeled between ICs, rather than "through" them as in
ordinary wire-wrapping, this is not a good method for
low-noise applications.  I'd also use gold-plated headers,
not tin, but that's just a preference.)

YMMV